Looking Glasswoodzy | 28 October, 2007 00:24 Another long Friday night. We left my apartment at 9:15, did some shopping at Trader Joe's. Finally left ATL at around 9.30/45. There was also some partaking of Chik-Fil-A. I got myself a Chocolate Milkshake, most of it was delicous. However after about 20 minutes, it spilled itself all over the seat. Yes it was my fault, there was a cell phone involved. Those pesky devices, that I use exclusively as my communication device. Whatever. So between the water from nalgenes and window scrapers, I got most of the shake out of the seat. But it still smelled of cow products, so it needed some Febreeze! QT came to the rescue with Gas, Towels and frebreeze. Excellent. Anyway we got to LG at around 1:30am. The moon was amazingly bright and I suggested that we get on the Nose for a night ascent. But unforunately, I felt pretty tired (as did JR and SM) so we instead just setup camp inside the cave and crashed. The next morning we got up at 9ish, and headed to the south face. Everything was wet except for some of the routes to the far left. I think we climbed Second Coming. I climbed this guy in 2 pitches. It was far better that way. I think I've climbed this route in 3 pitches before, but it was far better to do it in just two. One long one up to a reasonable belay, then straight to the new bolts instead of the Gemini tree. After that I wanted to show JR and SM what the Glass is famous for. The eyebrows. So we headed over to the Nose area and climbed the Nose. It was windy as hell. I had led this thing before, and JR wanted to cut his teeth again on lead after a while hiatus climbing. So this was perfect. It was a three man party so it was alread kinda slow... so JR just lead all the pitches. Sweet. I remember having linked the first two pitches, but I think I had a 70m rope when I did that. I think linking them would be very close... I should try it some time with a 60m. I didn't feel like epic'ing with JR leading. We finished the Nose, with the super frigid wind really cutting into us, with only about 30 minutes of sunlight left in the day. Those mountains cut the light out pretty early, so we finished the rap right as darkness was setting in. The hike out was pretty chill even in the dark. El Chapala was the next stop on our list. It was delicious. I had a texas fajita, and JR and I shared a couple pitchers of XX beer, to celebrate our excelent trip to LG and JR's and SM's first visit to the Glass. We grabbed some wood from the Bi-Lo on the way back into the park and went back to our excellent cave camping spot. I was feeling a little tipsy at this point, and with that kind of inhibition, running through the woods and just moving in the woods in general was a fun prospect. I found myself being very bold just jumping around on rocks and walking over boulders. Heh. I need to harness some of the balsyness for tomorrow. Anyway we build a fire, talk some talk and hang out with some excellent climbing partners! We slept in waay late today. I think it was about 10am when we woke up. We got to the Nose area and immediately hiked over to the Sun Wall. Since it was about 1pm at this time, I didn't want to commit to group to a long route, instead I went over to one of the routes I have always really wanted to do. Hyperbola. Hyperbola has two starts: 5.9 R and 5.11b. The 5.9R is indeed some 5.9 friction climbing... I'm not sure how R is it, but it certainly is serious because of the flake below. I lead the 9R attack on the beautiful crescent. There were certainly a few of the very committing moves, but nothing harder than what was done on Whitesides, or Laurel. So it wasn't completely unexpected. Plus, once you commit you gotta do it! I tried the 5.11 variation start afterward on TR. The move just after the first bolt is some business. You kinda mantle on a side-pull, and the clip the second bolt, then I traversed to the right some to another side pull pop'ed up and I was into the crack. I think that variation is just an run out, the pro in the really shallow crack is REALLY shallow, and small. The only good gear is in the 10' finger crack. The crack was awesome, and it made me sad that the 9R kinda skirts that part. We head out after that, it was a minimal climbing day, but it was GOOD climbing. Hyperbola is indeed a super classic route! Good 'ole Zaxby's on the way back. Another long Friday night. We left my apartment at 9:15, did some shopping at Trader Joe's. Finally left ATL at around 9.30/45. There was also some partaking of Chik-Fil-A. I got myself a Chocolate Milkshake, most of it was delicous. However after about 20 minutes, it spilled itself all over the seat. Yes it was my fault, there was a cell phone involved. Those pesky devices, that I use exclusively as my communication device. Whatever. So between the water from nalgenes and window scrapers, I got most of the shake out of the seat. But it still smelled of cow products, so it needed some Febreeze! QT came to the rescue with Gas, Towels and frebreeze. Excellent. Anyway we got to LG at around 1:30am. The moon was amazingly bright and I suggested that we get on the Nose for a night ascent. But unforunately, I felt pretty tired (as did JR and SM) so we instead just setup camp inside the cave and crashed. The next morning we got up at 9ish, and headed to the south face. Everything was wet except for some of the routes to the far left. I think we climbed Second Coming. I climbed this guy in 2 pitches. It was far better that way. I think I've climbed this route in 3 pitches before, but it was far better to do it in just two. One long one up to a reasonable belay, then straight to the new bolts instead of the Gemini tree. After that I wanted to show JR and SM what the Glass is famous for. The eyebrows. So we headed over to the Nose area and climbed the Nose. It was windy as hell. I had led this thing before, and JR wanted to cut his teeth again on lead after a while hiatus climbing. So this was perfect. It was a three man party so it was alread kinda slow... so JR just lead all the pitches. Sweet. I remember having linked the first two pitches, but I think I had a 70m rope when I did that. I think linking them would be very close... I should try it some time with a 60m. I didn't feel like epic'ing with JR leading. We finished the Nose, with the super frigid wind really cutting into us, with only about 30 minutes of sunlight left in the day. Those mountains cut the light out pretty early, so we finished the rap right as darkness was setting in. The hike out was
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