Crimped

My path climbing around the fish bowl.

Crowders Mtn, NC

woodzy | 12 January, 2006 21:15

 

 

Swank little area. This is kinda like the Sandrock of NC.

The approach is a real bitch. According to a ranger I talked with, the approach (backside) trail is 0.9 miles and elevates 600ft. And at the end of that trail you are greeted by ~150 stairs gaining you another 150ft.

Camping is also an irritating feat. The park closes and LOCKs the front gates at 6pm in the winter... Seriously what am I to do with that? Thats when I finish climbing and start wanting some food... not back in camp ready to be stuck there the whole night...

We ended up car camping behind a church and scaring the crap out of a Natural Gas guy filling the churches tank. heh


Routes

  • First Day
    • Nuclear Cottage Cheese - 5.9+
      • The roof move is the 5.9+ part everything else is easy 5.7ish. This climb was a little gritty and the upper parts were loose. I also had problems finding the anchor bolts so we ended up slinging a tree (kinda off route). This had some tricky gear.
    • Electra - Sport - 5.10c
      • Excellent route, this really was a fun route. Awkward undercling and a nice layback.
    • After the escade and a late start it was getting dark and we were still unsure of what we were gonna do at night so we called it quits around 5.
  • Day Two
    • Burn Crack - 5.10c
      • Excellent route. Very fun. Its just as classic as the book says. 5/10ft overhanging in the first 20/30ft of the route. Good moves tricky gear.
    • Opinionated - 5.9+ - Sport
      • Adam needed to lead something while we where here ;). Good route kinda like a mantle problem after a mantle problem.
    • Unnamed 5.8
      • This was almost as classic as burn crack. It was lots of climbing all tucked into one route. VERY VERY asthetic climb. On the backside of Davids Castle (main wall). Has bolts at the top.
This was a good trip. I don't really feel inspired to visit again immediately, but maybe when (if) I climb 5.11 it will be worth it :)... There is one 5.10a/c dihedral on the Red Wall that looks super awesome. I'll have to do it one day.
 
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