Tallulah Gorge
woodzy | 15 January, 2006 11:10
I have no idea why I haven't been here before! Well let me rephrase that... the approach to the base of the cliff is NOT user friendly but the cliff line is spectacular. So the rumors of the approach being horrendous have kept me away, until now! hah. The real trick to the descent trail is (the ranger said you can't rappel?) keep going down hill first then moving toward the cliffs next and cross at the ACTUAL bottom of the water fall. There are so many trails from random people getting lost its beyond confusing the first time you go there. All in all, climbing here, in the winter especially, is absolutely awesome. It was a forcasted high 40's and it felt like 70-75 right on the wall in the sun. We didn't even need our long sleeve shirts until after sunset.
Routes:
- Punk Wave - 3 pitches - 10a
- When you walk to the base of main wall... you look around and you see Punk Wave. It groans to be climbed. The first pitch is absolutely stellar, the gear is pretty good. At the top of the first pitch there is some nice 10/20ft (depending on how creative/stupid? you are) run out until you get to the dihedral below the fixed anchors. Its slabby, but when you get to the dihedral there are quite a few thank god! side pulls and jams. My hands are sweating thinking about how cool this route was.
- Digital Delight - 4 pitches - 8
- If water is flowing on the left of the start, then this route will be wet! The start up to the tree ledge is awkward is just kinda irritating. The chimney is foolish as well. The gem is the climbing just above the chimney. Excellent stemming corner, I muscled through that... and there is CERTAINLY a better way.
Crowders Mtn, NC
woodzy | 12 January, 2006 21:15
Swank little area. This is kinda like the Sandrock of NC.
The approach is a real bitch. According to a ranger I talked with, the approach (backside) trail is 0.9 miles and elevates 600ft. And at the end of that trail you are greeted by ~150 stairs gaining you another 150ft.
Camping is also an irritating feat. The park closes and LOCKs the front gates at 6pm in the winter... Seriously what am I to do with that? Thats when I finish climbing and start wanting some food... not back in camp ready to be stuck there the whole night...
We ended up car camping behind a church and scaring the crap out of a Natural Gas guy filling the churches tank. heh
Routes
- First Day
- Nuclear Cottage Cheese - 5.9+
- The roof move is the 5.9+ part everything else is easy 5.7ish. This climb was a little gritty and the upper parts were loose. I also had problems finding the anchor bolts so we ended up slinging a tree (kinda off route). This had some tricky gear.
- Electra - Sport - 5.10c
- Excellent route, this really was a fun route. Awkward undercling and a nice layback.
- After the escade and a late start it was getting dark and we were still unsure of what we were gonna do at night so we called it quits around 5.
- Day Two
- Burn Crack - 5.10c
- Excellent route. Very fun. Its just as classic as the book says. 5/10ft overhanging in the first 20/30ft of the route. Good moves tricky gear.
- Opinionated - 5.9+ - Sport
- Adam needed to lead something while we where here ;). Good route kinda like a mantle problem after a mantle problem.
- Unnamed 5.8
- This was almost as classic as burn crack. It was lots of climbing all tucked into one route. VERY VERY asthetic climb. On the backside of Davids Castle (main wall). Has bolts at the top.
This was a good trip. I don't really feel inspired to visit again immediately, but maybe when (if) I climb 5.11 it will be worth it :)... There is one 5.10a/c dihedral on the Red Wall that looks super awesome. I'll have to do it one day.
Clito
woodzy | 25 December, 2005 00:08
Spent most of my time there this afternoon scoping out the river and the opposite bank. There is one nice little boulder on clito side with 3/4 problems on it. 2 I did probably v1/2 respectively. I really like the first one I saw (but those classic lines are always the obvious ones).
T-Wall
woodzy | 18 December, 2005 23:35
Good Day at T-Wall. I'm burned from my bouldering, so I needed a day of hand jams and laybacks. I got it for sure ;)... Routes - Arts (5.8)
- Good warm up... the crux move didn't really feel like an 8 (more like a V2 bouldering problem), but that was just an omen of what was to come.
- Pursuit of Excellence (5.9)
- It was my lead, my jamming technique sucks, I get about 20 feet up on this route gripped to all hell because I don't trust my stances (I spent 10 minutes moving up and down in crappy hand/feet jams) and fall and almost deck on my #2 camalot which in the process of my fall gets tipped out and thank GOD! it held. Not to mention correct belay technique, that would have been a pain had Luke not ran and taken a few feet. I was actually falling back first into an ugly boulder... Nice ~.8/9 fall factor.
- RazorWorm (5.9) and Cake Walk (5.8)
- Sanscrit (5.8)
These routes were harder than the damn sport routes at Sandrock... man my jamming skills suck. If I work on those just a little, I'd be a solid 5.10 trad climber... all those moves feel the same except for those friggin jams :) I am such a sport climber hah...
HP-40 Boulderama
woodzy | 17 December, 2005 23:13
Spent Friday night at HP40 and all day saturday bouldering. We did some fun night bouldering until about 3am (got up at 9am and it was warmer at 3 heh). One fun problem, probably a nice V3 arete overhang kinda thing. Gotta be a classic. Saturday. I destroyed the tips of my fingers. They were gone. Blood just started coming out at one point, heh... "Well looks like sweat has been replaced with blood."
The most fun problems I did Saturday (at least these are the named ones)
- Fronts Slabs... I bunch of easyish stuff here
- groove 2 - V2
- was alot of fun, good warm up right in the front
- Ring My Bell - V2
- Ghetto Superstar
- Mulletino - V5
- Stellar Roof problem right at my max :)
- The Lowdown - V4
- cute moves and hard lock offs... kept spitting me off in the beginning, my footwork sucks...
- High Life
- Circumcision, Eightball, Contusion, Short Charge - V2
- Waiting Line - V3
- One of the best problems I did
- High Life - V5
Boat Rock
woodzy | 14 December, 2005 23:07
Going in the summer sucks... but in the winter this an excellent place to practice footwork/technique. Did all sorts of stuff today... the best stuff was - Fire Women - V5
- Waves in Motion - V3
- Yellow Arete - V4
- This is an absolutely awesome bouldering problem. Very classic.
Toyed with the spiderman boulder and (someones) throw V7 hard ;)
Sandrock - Sporty Day
woodzy | 10 December, 2005 23:18
Sandrock on a cold day... this winter climbing this is kinda irritating. hah. I am of course new to the winter anyway. Florida doesn't have what I would consider winters nowadays. I don't understand how Ice Climbing can even occur :)
- Some 9 on North side of Holiday Block...
- I don't think my hands have ever been this cold... I have no idea how my hands worked on this slopy shade ridden rock in what had to be freezing temps... Man rock steals heat quickly...
- Price is Right (11a)
- We got smart and moved into the sun. Fun roof climb... really just 3-4 moves.
- Midget Digits (11b)
- Whoa, this is a crazy first 3 bolts. But a fun climb very worthy of 3 stars :)
- Never Believe (11a)
- Glad I talked myself into climbing this. Super pumpy route. Man do I need more endurance... I practically aided up this route.
Boat Rock
woodzy | 10 December, 2005 23:11
Not much time to play around today. 2nd Time to BR... still overwhelmed by stuff here. Got kinda rainy after a few hours.
Lost Digits - was as good send though. A nice BR classic.
Failed Attempt @ Climbing on the New River Trail
woodzy | 30 November, 2005 23:31
Between the 10 mile trek to where I wanted to climb and the sun setting soo bloody early... I didn't get to probably FA anything on the trail ;( Took a few pictures and marked em in memory where they are. New River Trail climbing wish list... - Finger Crack past the bridge (~17/18 on the trail)
- Slab area after the bathrooms from foster falls, VA (mile marker 19?)
- Slab area before the bathrooms from foster falls, VA (not too sure)
- Slab south trail from fosterfalls mile or two south of foster falls, VA.
Fall 05 Advanced Class - Yonah
woodzy | 19 November, 2005 23:23
This was just a chill day in the sun on a giant slab called Mt. Yonah. It was kinda fun flying up the 5.5/6 slab. It's a class kinda setting so not much real climbing occured, just alot of teaching about gear. Although toward the end I got on LSD (one of the best routes at Yonah, accordring to Mr. Dixie Cragger) Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds. Fun route. One of the craziest runnouts I've done but I'm gonna keep pushing that barrier until something happens I'm sure :). - LSD - 10a - 3 bolts 50 feet and one sweet tricam (.5) placement.
|
Trackbacks (0)