Crimped

My path climbing around the fish bowl.

Oh the idiotic pain...

woodzy | 13 May, 2006 07:47

I'm a fool of fools... so I get to Spain, see a cool slab (generated: read brick wall) climb and decide to start climbing it with my crap shoes on. Turns out I suck at life and fall to the ground, a nice 3m drop. Break a metacarple and a half on my left foot. suck!

Yonah yet Again!

woodzy | 02 May, 2006 07:44

My finger injury was the main reason, no crimping allowed (as it was for the past 2 trips), but Yonah is fun easy climbing with sweet views.

Climbed something, not really sure what it was, some 5.9 somesuch with dirt all over it. I love runouts on slab :)

Yonah again...

woodzy | 22 April, 2006 07:41

Helped teach the Advanced class... had a major turned minor epic with another group who took a lead fall and hit her head. Good learning experience.

I'm getting too complacent not putting any gear in hah, climbed one climb with 5 pieces of gear, some balance climb thing.

Quote of the Day

woodzy | 20 April, 2006 22:42

"I agree with those that say that climbing is not life. It is much better than that. In climbing you get nothing other than what you absolutely deserve. It has no skin color, no gender, no rules that matter, and no lawyers, referees, or pushy parents. You can’t get any more or any less out of climbing than exactly what you put into it. There are no dead ends in climbing, no barriers other than the ones we impose on ourselves. The blend of skill, boldness, and desire that each route requires is unique unto itself and yet connected to every other route as if within one long, continuous passage. Life is hard on dreams, harder on dreamers. Climbing was built for them. For in climbing success and failure both lead to the same place, to new resolves and new possibilities. Life should be so good."

Geof Childs

Yonah - fun day

woodzy | 15 April, 2006 07:38

Went out to Mt. Yonah... did some 5.11 bolted thing, it was like a move.. then TR'ed another 5.11hard on the way down, it was cool... required a right foot pebble step left foot/hand match on a crimper, very cool move.

El Potrero Chico - Spring Break '06

woodzy | 17 March, 2006 09:48

This is going to be a novel below, as I recount what happened. But a short recap of my favorite routes...

  • Texas Tumbler - 10d
  • Yankee Clipper - (14 pitches) 10b
  • Agua de Coco - (3 pitches) 10d
  • Treasure of the Sierra Madre - (8 pitches) 10c
  • Crack-A-Mole - 11c
  • Monica Lewinsky's Crack - 11a
  • Guppy - 12a (tufa tufa tufa)
  • Pangea - 11d
  • Will the Wolf Survive - (4 pitches) 10a

Climbing for an entire week in Mexico was easily one of my favorite trips I have taken. The food was great! The company was great! And the climbing was superb!

Mar 17 2006 - Mar 26 2006


Teaser Photo!

Best Picture EVER!... No seriously this is one of the best pictures I've taken.

 (More)

ORGT Beginners School #2

woodzy | 11 March, 2006 09:41

We decided to go to Rocktown this weekend mainly because of rain partly because it could be fun. I had to prove to myself that I could climb this weekend too because next weekend+week I'ma be climbing around in El Potrero Chico.

Yaaay (said slow), fractured pinky (said fast)! (I don't know what I'm talking about)

I lead some stuff last weekend (at the beginners trip) but it was all super easy, so we setup some overhanging stuff to flail on and I did, which was very disheartening, but then I decided to put my climbing shoes on... that went better.

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ORGT Beginners School #1

woodzy | 04 March, 2006 09:34

Yay Sandrock... there were so many people there this weekend we had a setup our rappel station (with fancy backup, munter-mule, explosion of knots, gear and rope) on the block behind the normal one. Which was fun rappelling down right next to Jaws. It was a little longer offered a better view, in my opinion might be a better spot, heh.

We went on to setup a couple of climbs for all the students but of course Comfortably Numb was the gem as always. The students get to stare up and gawk at a full rope length (since the south is so short anyway).

I now have The Pinnacle on the other side of Comfortably wired with 3 pieces of gear heh, .75 cam below, #6 nut 15 feet up, #3 stopper another 20 feet up and your at the top.


I always like bringing new folks into the outdoors and showing them how cool we are :)

Another beginners next week.

Tallulah Gorge

woodzy | 26 February, 2006 13:18

Thanks to the weather, this was my first day out climbing in around three weeks! Phew, well it was good to be climbing again. No epics this time... I've got the 5.4 move on the approach wired now hah. Now the most dangerous part of the approach is the waterfall/stream crossing.

Weather was beautiful, 40's on the top of the gorge and it had to have been low 80's and no humidity down in the gorge. It was excellent climbing!

Routes

  • Mescalene Daydream - 5.8 (2 pitches) the layback is fun, the beginning is kinda awkward though, and the rop does funny things... but this is a great climb all in all.
  • Punk Wave - 5.wired 10a - We only did the first pitch. The beginning is always tenuous, but that was the only spot on the route I had any kind of concern... there was even slight mis-communication near the runnout slab part... Our intention was to climb the later pitches, but the traverse to the rest of the climb just seemed stupid...
  • Primitive Paradox - 5.9 (only the first pitch) - This is another great climb, only wish it was longer. Have to come back and do all of it.

Fosters

woodzy | 28 January, 2006 23:34

Sweet day at Foster Falls. The water was the highest I've ever seen it. The waterfall was absolutely breathe-taking and loud too :). Perfect weather for climbing today too, on some of the routes chalk was just overkill, it was excellent.

Routes in Order

  • Ankles Away - 9
  • Twist and Shout - 9+
    • Both of those are great face climbs. Thin holds balancy moves and just ever so slightly below vertical (88? 89?). Twist is an excellent Arete kinda airy in some spots, but a good technical climb.
  • Fish Eyed Fool - 10b
    • Always a fun climb, has a few cool moves in it. Good to work out those leading jitters.
  • Rode hard and Put up Wet - 10d
    • In true style it was climbed we today heh. I convinced my partner he needed to lead it (a little above his head), but the moves really are rewarding once you do them. Loses a little of its luster each time I've done it.
  • Something's Always Wrong - 10d
    • This was to-date my best onsight lead. It was absolutely stellar climbing. This was certainly one of the top 5 climbs I have ever climbed. VERY excellent. I just can't explain how fun it was. Its always great when the moves just flow perfectly! Recommended Climb... deserves more than 2 stars in the dixie craggers!
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