T-Wall
woodzy | 12 November, 2006 20:52
- Pursuit of Excellence
- Hungry for Heaven - 10d
- Such an excellent route. The start is mad hard, but good gear and your safe. The route is very sustained after that, it is almost always overhanging or dead virtical until the very top.
- Blood on the Rocks - 10b/c
- Had a little bit of an epic here... ouch... but its all good
T-Wall
woodzy | 10 November, 2006 11:54
Day started great... got on Passages placed 5 pieces of gear felt solid! Then we ran over to Margin of Profit (5.9+). This is a super sweet route, and tons and tons of fun. Though cleaning trad gear on rappel isn't super awesome. Then Stonewave (11a). Then Finger Lockin Good (10b/c). I got smacked around on Finger Lockin... my crack technique sucks, my core isn't strong enough or something.
Laurel Knob
woodzy | 22 October, 2006 15:48
Laurel Knob is absolutely spectacular. The height of this cliff is just inconcievable... You look up and still cannot understand that 150' is infact 150, you start thinking its something like 80'. Most of the routes are seriously run-out on the easy sections. We were at the cliff by 8:30/9 and it was seeping horrendously. So we did the first pitch of Fathom, then headed over to Groover and did the first pitch of that, worried about commitment and possibly soaking grooves we bailed there. We then found out that most of the face had started drying up. Begoon/Offenbacher 5.10c slab looked VERY enticing at this point. I was pretty scared of the run out and the slab climbing, but I sucked it up and climbed the thing... The run outs are horrible, the super runout sections are pretty chill, but still a 50ft fall on slab would not feel good. Slab climbing just looks so appealing! But then you get ready to start climbing and well you scare yourself looking up at the small nothingness.
OBED!!! - Semana de Escalada parte dos
woodzy | 16 October, 2006 23:46
What an amazing place. Although it is all sport, you can still have so much fun. Between the people, the routes and the rockfall it was tons of fun. Lily Bluff camping is where its at... everything else is just subpar. Boo on the rain for ending it early. - 10/13 - Lilly Bluff
- Paraphernalia 10b/c
- Ticks Are Fore Kids 10a
- got back at this climb for dropping me around a year ago :)
- Dinosaur Jr. 10c
- Very awesome start, lieback, feet high, pivot up. Deserves more than 1 star.
- Heresy - 11c
- The bouldering move is around 3 bolts up... not too bad. The roof is amazing climbing. Feet everywhere and totally horizontal. Flailed missing a jug in the roof.
- 10/14 - South Clear
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- Wow. The crux is so much fun. VERY airy. You can power through it, or do a bunch of fun heel toe moves. I studied the crux for a good 5/10 minutes on lead, my proudest onsight to date. Best route of the day! Sketchy start without a stick clip, but fun :)
- General Admission - 11a os
- There is really only one more in here, the rest is just fighting pump. Luckly trad has prepared me for this. Sweet climb though!
- Double Feature - 10c os
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- Annoying boulderly move in the beginning, leads to fun jug pulling and one cool move if you force it ;)
- Spawn - 10a red-pt (guide says 10c/d... lies)
- I flailed through this a couple of yrs ago, but nailed it this time, so much fun. It is so long and fun varied climbing.
- 10/15 - North Clear Creek - The Inner Circle
- Amazing climbing in here! We were the only party in here today, as apposed to having 20 people around us in south clear with dogs and stuff...
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- Flailed the beginning... not being strong enough or commited, either one not sure. Bad warm up :). Key hand jamming beta in the roof!
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- Very sweet route until the top... the top is just annoying, I don't even know where to start, slopped edge to slopped rail to rail to pocket... Very varied climbing, was alot of fun.
- Keeper Of The Flame - 12a
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- This is my hardest lead to date. Totally classic. Boulder problem down low leads to GIANT holds through the roof to another boulder problem. I got shut down at this problem trying beta that won't work for me. Figured it out and bam! I could red-point this route. Stay Tuned :)
- 10/16 - Lilly Bluff (rain)
- Rocking Chair - 9
- Heresy - 11c - redpoint 2nd time. Powered through the crux... stupid.
- Tried the start of Wheatward Bound 12b... hah, shut down.
Tallulah Gorge
woodzy | 07 October, 2006 21:00
Perfect day at the gorge... not too hot, not too cold, just warm enough for a little chalk. - Punk Wave
- First time doing more than the first pitch... The 2nd pitch is great, not that hard... the traverse is fine you have a couple of crimpers, but not much gear. The finger crack is indeed short, just a bouldering move.
- Flying Frog - 10b/c
- Outstanding route! The gear is sufficient, there is only one 5.10 (maybe two) move(s) on there with enough pro around it. Be prepared to run to the first piece of gear though. Stellar climb, so long, so fun. The layback end is amazing! 5.8 fun. Doubles are nice, especially since you need two to get down... So classic...
- 5.9 something off-route
- Did some "9" near Mescaline Daydream... got off route and onto lyken, placed a total of 2 pieces of gear on the whole route... a little hair ball perhaps.
Lost Wall - Awesomeness
woodzy | 17 September, 2006 22:17
Got on some awesome routes today, it was an introduction to climbing for a few folks, but I got to lead some awesome routes onsight :). Makes me happy! Routes: - Steggo 5.6...
- two pieces of gear :), good thing I've gotten comfortable with < 5.7 run-out-ness
- Black Pig 5.9
- Booze and Broads 9
- Awesome route! The start is not as hard as it looks, but thought provoking.
- Pipe Full of Fun - 10a
- The start is crazy! But with the right boulding moves... horizontaling your back and jamming your left foot and knee baring your right foot its not so bad... but it looks crazy.
- The rest of the route is awesome, its not hard, rests everywhere... tons of fun!
- Awesome finger-locks abound
- Linda's Corner - 7
Tenessee Wall
woodzy | 15 September, 2006 21:19
I know its early in the season... but it was almost perfect today... especially in the shade after 2/3 pm - prerequisite for excellence - 5.8
- passages - 5.8
- the sweep - 5.10a
- the craggers is not kidding when it says scant gear! luckily we tr'ed it first. the beginning is the crux, as always. To the routes credit the sections that are run out (20-25ft) are pretty chill and protected by pretty good gear (.75 BD cam). The only move close to worrying about is 5/6 feet above the gear.)
- pursuit of excellence 5.9 (with perfect hand crack techinique, hah)...
- so you'll want move than 2 #1's and 2 #2's on this route... ah running out the top 30ft of the handcrack is not recommended... although nothing went sour it had the possibility... luckly I didn't epic twice on this route!
- i need to lead this next time and work the hand crack afterwards
- finagle - 5.9
- sweet 20ft finger lock/crack nice and facey.
I meant to get on finger lockin' good... but after my enduro riduculous on pusuit, I wasn't really feelin' it.
BBQ potato is always awesome
Sunset Rock
woodzy | 09 September, 2006 21:14
Boy did I drag my ass today... mentionables... - Stan's Crack - 5.8?
- Rusty's Crack 5.10a
- OW monster in the beginning leads to a 5.10 bouldery roof (which is dialed now) move out to an OW crack and cruise to the top.
- Flagstone (top-roped) - 5.11a (tried some direct 5.11c/d hard roof... disaster)
- gotta lead this guy next time, its gear is better than the guide book implies... the bolts cover the trouble at the top
Looking Glass
woodzy | 02 September, 2006 21:08
Sleeping in a hammock in the cave near the pull off toward the South face is awesome... unless bats run into you and you fear some rabies! :) no worries though. Routes... - The Nose (run out for fun?... or no gear doing direct stuff on the last pitch :) )
- Safari Jive 2 pitches - 11c (aid through the 11c move**, then climb a beautiful finger crack for 25ft... running out the last 20 ft is awesome! its all good gear.)
- The Odyssey 5.11 - 3 pitches
- supposedly the first pitch is 5.9... hah its like run out 5.10 friction with crazy wandering
- the second pitch is STELLAR 90 feet of hand and fist jamming with one little section of OW.. transfering out of the crack to a belay is the tricky part. Granite crack climbing tears the crap out of your hands... where's my sandstone
Fosters Falls - First Climbing back in GA '
woodzy | 19 August, 2006 21:04
Quickly stated...
- rocket slab is always a quick-one with new folk...
- grey matter
- miss prissy
- diamond cutter
- swimming (WITH NO WATER FALL! WTF MATE?)
- unknown 10ish double roof... bolts looked brand new
- BBQ is awesome.
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