LRC - Lizard Wallwoodzy | 25 January, 2007 20:05 Awesome climbing here! Its hard sport, but thats what I need to get me climbing better. We got on quite a few routes today. 2 Warm up 11's and 3 12's. I like the non topo'ness. You have to climb or look at everything to figure out if its good or not... if its on lizard wall its probably good. Gotta remember the shortcut to this place... SR255 instead of 146 (or whatever the lrc road name is)...
Jamestownwoodzy | 17 January, 2007 11:16 Jamestown is amazing! Its basically next to Little River Canyon. Everything is sorta well marked, but now that I have the GPS coords of the parking lot, its all gravy. The routes are kinda few and far between, its a better version of Lost Wall basically with worse gear... No not really just this one 10 I got on had pretty much no gear going on.
Boat Rock Comp "Float the Boat"woodzy | 13 January, 2007 19:14 They day started off with good news... the comp started at 10am not 8am like I had thought (well I found that out last night, when we had the BR Comp party at Concourse ATL), and it wasn't raining... The SCC opened up a little area called Wood's Hill (thats what we called our hill in Galax, VA... haah... the Woods are so creative!) which had some awesome problems in it. They were all pretty new, so crystals were flying off like no other, but quality routes nonetheless. On Woods Hill we did (names according to the BR Comp Book): - Two Lips v3 - Field Goal Slab (sweet route don't blow it) v3 - Joy to the Crystal v1 - Project Slab (this route was awesome, I ripped a key hold off of it on my first attempt, I woulda had it) - I think I sent it on my 3/4 attempt. v5 Moving on to the main area: - Sourwood Arete and Mantle (v3/v3) - I tried getting on Sourwood Sit but that requires some power I just don't have or something... I blame it on my core. - Waves in Motion v3 - I've got the Camp 4 beta on this one... I think I do it every time I'm at BR. - Angioplasty (v5) - Awesome boulder problem!!! Scary as hell. The 15ft fall will not go well... Almost did it but I started talking to my feet and you better believe they listened! So when your feet start sliding you just yell "NO, you better not fucking slide! NO!" then they stop. This was my proudest send of the day. No desire to really do that one again, heh...
Suck Creek Canyonwoodzy | 06 January, 2007 20:13 So much to say... This area is certainly overlooked by the general climber, but should be visited more. It is certainly adventure climbing! Especially with everything damp and dirty (it might not always be damp, heh). The trail is anything but obvious, which is fun, the routes are anything but obvious which is fun. The adventure begins in the car wondering where exactly this specific pull off it out of the fifty million possibilities. We finally decide on one and then the next challenge: crossing suck creek. Well we found a somewhat decent crossing point, hopping on boulders and whatnot following the stream up to this cliff line. The cliff line is obvious, but everything is dirty. This is nothing like the well traveled crags of the DCA, no this is the dirty brother of T-Wall. We started by climbing something we thought was a route, but who knows if we stayed on route or anything, but I do know that the end was scary as crap... a good 50 ft angling on lyken/dirt/water/animal-covered slab face with absolutely no pro. You will quickly adapt the mentality that you just cannot fall ever. Its not that the climbing was hard, it wasn't, but it was very heady knowing your feet are dirty and wet, your hands and fingers have the same fate... and you better not screw up or your taking a huge pendy + a 50ft fall. Reminds me of some climbing I've done at Tallulah. So I got to the belay ledge... the gear I did place was rather good... the second pitch of the climb we thought we were one didn't seem right, so we just rapped from a giant tree. Plus the rock above us looked like it was part of a Jenga set, not what I want to be climbing on. I thought that Bomb's Away (5.8+), maybe???, had cured me of my Suck Creek adventure, but then I see this BEAUTIFUL finger crack, that could be called Sand Jive. The finger crack was literally just begging me to climb it... I bouldered the first move or so, pulled some shit rock off decided I'd try it another time. The end made no sense and without any webbing to leave behind I didn't really want to leave gear or rap off the small looking tree that was near it. This route looked absolutely spectacular though, its so pretty. I don't understand how the Craggers could only give it ZERO stars... something must be up :) Also the belay instructions made no sense... but I think I've said that a few times now... My goal is to collect some beta on it and go climb it... later. We did walk the entire right side cliff line, looking at Auschwitz Buttress, Upper Passes and Flying Squirrel Buttress... a lot of it is really dirty, but the places it looks awesome compare to T-Wall without the craggy feeling of T-Wall! Need to figure out how to get to the concentration camps, and maybe go visit roadside.
TWall - Pushing My Limitwoodzy | 04 January, 2007 10:29 Came back home early from the break so I could get out to T-Wall and enjoy the beautiful weather (read crazy warm for December) we are having now. I used my fancy new GPS to find out how long the T-Wall trail was... and I think the verdict is .5 miles horizontal distance and maybe .75 miles on the actual trail after you account for vertical rise. Everything was seeping today, must have been from the big rains two days ago or so, but the waterfall and a lot of the major cracks were spewing water. - Started out on Razorworm a very nice 5.8 crack. I remember being pretty scared on this about a year and a half ago I think, but I felt just so secure on it today - Then ran over to Points of Contact - 10c. And it shot me off when you get to the "dual cracks" or the super thin crack. It is an outstanding line though and well protected in all the parts your looking for protection. - Threw my climbing partner on Hungry for Heaven, a pumpfest for 10d onsight for sure. The key is just keep moving until your on big holds :) which is why this is a 10 and not an 11.. rests. - Then Mirage, an awesome 11ish sport route near Hungry for Heaven. Sport climbing is such a vacation. Next day... all sport on the south side - A Turn of the Page (10a os) - Sweet route! Obviously the ugly duckling of the 13's around the corner, but this route certainly has its own merit. - Keel Hauled (13a) - I couldn't do the lip move (which is the 13a part obviously), but there were fixed draws so it truly was a vacation. - Stone Hinge (12b/c) - Hah... way harder than that, had to bail. - The Messenger (14a) - The 14a move requires some real man juice... some ridiculous stemming for sure with some mad crazy shoulder strength. There is no way I could think about doing this move heh... - Gave Keel Hauled another go... same place
Stone Mountain - NCwoodzy | 28 December, 2006 12:02 What a beautiful granite slab! I don't know why people are so sketched out by it... I looked at pretty much the start of every climb there and while some had serious runs to the first piece of pro, it looked like moderate climbs had pretty easy terrain between gear/bolts. My goal for the day was to just explore and maybe boulder a little bit. Well that is not exactly what happened... I did do alot of hiking (6 miles?) and playing with my new gps. I did boulder around on some awesome boulders for 30 minutes. Then I also solo'ed some 5.easy (they're all the same under 5.7) water groove... just to be fair at some points (after 100ft or so) all I had to do was stand up and walk on a 20 degree incline but that only lasted 50ft or so. I know this should be thought of as stupid and I did walk along most of the cliff saying that I wouldn't even consider climbing this thing w/no rope (although I did decide that if I had a rope & gear, I would have rope solo'ed everything)... but then I just saw the best (and easy, that was key) looking water groove around and ran up it in like 20 minutes (including a nice 10 minute break on the 10/20 degree "ledge." The grand total is probably something like 4thclass slab for 100ft, 5.easy for 300ft. There was one move on there were my head told me that this crystal step on almost vertical (80ish) terrain could crumble at any moment and you don't have any hands... don't die. But that passed quickly with no problems and then the water groove had all the features you could every ask for. In reality, if this was to be climbed at all... it was to be climbed solo... you "could" simul climb it but there wasn't any bomber gear really and if one of you fell, you both would die... so I feel somewhat justified :)
Little River Canyon - Grey Wallwoodzy | 18 December, 2006 11:01
Did a couple of the warm up 11's... Then got on some 12a/b then some 11hard then some 12hard. I need to work up my power endurance.
TWall - After Exam Stress Relieverwoodzy | 15 December, 2006 22:41 I am becoming too intimate with the hike up to T-Wall :) Climbed here Thursday & Friday.
Tallulahwoodzy | 09 December, 2006 12:43 Its 28 degrees in the parking lot of the "Interpretive Center" at Tallulah Gorge... we convince the rangers we aren't idiots... and start decending. I get to the 4th class scramble and I decide that I'm waay to hot in my fleece. We get to the base of Primitive Paradox and its probably 55/60 degrees in the sun. This is why Tallulah is so awesome. Also being about an hour fifteen from ATL is nice ;) No new climbing today, just showing off the place to a few friends.
Tennesee Wall (yet again... its so awesome)woodzy | 19 November, 2006 12:07
And as always Shufords is amazing...
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