Rumbling Baldwoodzy | 28 April, 2007 23:27 Frosted Flake some 7 on the cereal buttress some 11b face alot of hiking
T-Wallwoodzy | 16 April, 2007 01:20 Man, spring transforms T-Wall... It was so lush today, I almost didn't recognize it.
ORGT Sport Climbing Class - Fosterswoodzy | 07 April, 2007 01:36 Fosters. Duh! SUPER COLD! Yes it was cold. But we got at least 2 of the students right into sport climbing. I was very impressed that they just hopped on that did it like they had nothing to lose. Go them. I put one of them on Diamond Cutter, cause I knew it was harder than he could probably do, but I didn't even realize how cold it was... that was my basically first lead and well I almost got pumped on it. So I can clearly see my progress in sport climbing. Sport climbers are weenies, Trad climbing is where its at. I love the gear, so much. Plus I don't have to stop at stupid bolts placed poorly. No need to rant here... But I feel that we inundated the new climbers rather well... a moral distaste for sport climbing. I hope then keep climbing, but at the same time, I don't... too many people climb nowadays anyway.
Best ORGT Beginners Trip Everwoodzy | 31 March, 2007 01:29 This was by far the best Beginners Trip for ORGT that I have ever been a part of. Lost Wall is an excellent place for Beginners, you just have to have the man power, head power, technical power to lead the trad. I as an instructor (leader basically) really enjoyed this trip as I didn't setup the got awful rappel that we usually do. We just skipped that crap. We also got the students are BETTER climbing than the crap at Sandrock that we always do. As well as introduced them to real climbing, trad climbing. Plus I got to lead basically every route, I love rope gunning (at least on routes I've never climbed). I need to lookup the routes we did... I realized something on this trip... I need to get a more look and climb attitude, rather than the dig through guide book then climb. I had plenty of fun on no star eights and such... some of this could be derived from seeing new people exposed to routes. But they have no idea what good routes are. We tried to get them on Linda's Corner but everyone was tired and feeling defeated at that point.
Climbing Red Rocks, NV and a Little Las Vegas as wellwoodzy | 16 March, 2007 01:19 Yet again the task falls on me to decide where I'm going climbing for Spring Break. This year the victim was Las Vegas/Red Rocks. I was itching for some long trad after basically a year of trad climbing all over the south... we are plagued with not having super long stuff, or so I thought. The trip begins late on Thursday night, Spirit Air check-in was a easy dash... everything seemed to be going smoothly. I needed to drop off a letter, and in that process (keeping the letter and ticket in the same pocket) lost my ticket. This happened literally 5 minutes after I checked in. So I wander back over to the ticket counter, happily smile at the friendly dude and tell him I'm a idiot and lost my ticket already. So I get that reprinted and then immediately find my other ticket, gah!! It looks like the tickets are identical as well... thats scary (all my security senses are going nuts, but no time for that). Turns out Spirit Air sucks. Sure its cheapish, but don't plan on sleeping if your even mildly tall, cause you won't. You'll need to amputate those legs at the end of the flight because blood flow wasn't sufficient. The flight attendants will also yell at you if you walk the isles because the seats suck, so be warned. I figured that would be the worst part of arriving, but ah no... its the beginning of March Madness and EVERYONE and their brother decided this moment right here... 12am in Vegas... hey! Lets go stand in the taxi line at the airport! Holy crap... there were at least 5 million people in that line. The line was literally longer than any amusement-park ride line I've ever been in, and I didn't even go upside down in this ride plus I had to pay at the end, but I'm getting ahead of myself. So we wait in the god awful line for 2 hours and finally get to the front... the jerk taxi driver with a van didn't even want to take us because "oh we had too many bags" "it will never fit"... jerk. Well we showed his ass, we got there in my vibe with that much crap we can certainly get in your dumb ass vehicle that is bigger. So our bags are in... we got out of that damn line... the worst must be over. No the taxi cab driver is all about talking about nothing. At one point he tells us that the reason he was at the airport with his taxi was because he had to go to the bathroom. What? This guy is on crack. So I asked him how he ended up in the great city of Vegas. His response... "With my fucking car." End of story... oh great story dude, what an ass. Ah the Circus Circus... we have arrived, drop the money to the taxi driver. Now the worst must certainly be over we're at the hotel, lets check in and sleep its like 1.5am now. Oh fuck no, the hotel has a check in LINE?!? What luck, everything in Vegas has a damn line... clearly too many people. So we sit in line for an hour and a half watching their promotional bull crap video like 20 times. There was a point where Chad and I literally were reciting pieces of it. Perhaps we where delirious... no wait YES we where it was 3am vegas time and 6am our time... I was delirious. Ah the check-in attendant... thank got get me my room key. Here is my reservation number and crap. "Ah sir, I cannot find that reservation number in our system." -- "Are you shitting me, I just sat through TWO lines and I don't have a reservation?!?" -- "Sir, This happens from time to time with Travelocity. If you give me your credit card we can rent you a room for the night and we can search for your reservation tomorrow and resolve this." -- "Fuck its 3am I don't care". I was pretty sure I just got ganked $80 bucks. Just get me the key to the room. Done. "Ok, your room is [now all you have to do is] across [lug all your shit] the street [across traffic 1/5 a mile away] and go into the 3rd manor [up the damn stairs]." Ok please let this be the end of this crap! Everyone is pretty pissed at this point... I was too composed for the crap I just went through. Sleep. An epic trip from ATL to Vegas. Wake up at 11am, cause we're all too tired to do anything else. elaborate later... Day 1 - Setup Camp in the campsite area go to Calico Boulder Day 2 - Lotta Balls Wall - get shut down by an 11a I thought was a 10c Day 3 - Cat in the Hat Day 4 - Rest Day Day 5 - Crimson Chrysalis Day 6 - Sport Climbing Day 7 - Rest Day Day 8 - Trad Cragging Day 9 - Eagle Wall - Levitation foiled by tools, climbed Eagle Dance instead Day 10 - Vegas and sketchy ass hotel for $100 a night and vamanos
Tennesee Wallwoodzy | 10 March, 2007 14:16 I'm feeling pretty solid on 10's these days... almost blew it on Cake Walk though ;) Went back and did a climb (Digital Macabre) that I remember flailing on back in the day (my first time to T-Wall really). Routes:
Twall - Burnt to a Crispwoodzy | 03 March, 2007 23:53 So last weekend T-Wall, Tennessee Wall, just north of Chattanooga, TN was burnt to a crisp. Well mostly. There was a large forest fire likely caused by a recurring arsonist that the police are still looking for. Climbing and fire don't usually go together, unless your busting out the campfire. The fire didn't seem to touch the cliff line, but it burned the top and bottom of the cliff line. The key there is burning the top of the cliff... that makes the slings and trees that you rap on sketchy as HELL. We unfortunately ran into this problem on "Days Work" near Sanskrit. The tree that you usually rapped off of... totally burned to a crisp! Slings where still on it... but ah... I'm not gonna trust my life to plastic (nylon) which loses pretty much ALL of its strength in the heat. So after a serious run out slab (cause we went the wrong wayish...), we had to traverse over to the anchors on Sanskrit. Oh its so much fun. EPIC :) I also lost my sunglasses... :( Our goal today was mileage, but between our 2 hour epic and stuff.. didn't really get the mileage we were going for.
Fosters Fantasticalwoodzy | 24 February, 2007 23:38 Nothing below 11b sport. It was an awesome day day. Perfect weather, a little chilly in the wind, but perfect temperatures! No chalk.
Tennesee Wallwoodzy | 18 February, 2007 00:11 Intro to some climbing for folk... :)
T-Wall-liciouswoodzy | 04 February, 2007 19:43 Yet another day when its 30 at the parking lot and PERFECT at the cliff line. Hand Jams and finger locks where todays medicine. Got on Pursuit of Excellence, Hidden Assets, Love Handle and Points of Contact. It was awesome to get back on Hidden Assets and just flash it, this was my first 10a trad lead back in the day (that was really only 2 years ago or so) (blog link) and it just totally spanked me then. It was awesome to get up there and just rock it. It really brings into perspective strength gains, a good perception of advancement and all that non-tangible stuff. Hidden assets is so much easier than Pursuit of Excellence, hehe... a nine... heh.
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