Suck Creek Canyonwoodzy | 06 January, 2007 20:13 So much to say... This area is certainly overlooked by the general climber, but should be visited more. It is certainly adventure climbing! Especially with everything damp and dirty (it might not always be damp, heh). The trail is anything but obvious, which is fun, the routes are anything but obvious which is fun. The adventure begins in the car wondering where exactly this specific pull off it out of the fifty million possibilities. We finally decide on one and then the next challenge: crossing suck creek. Well we found a somewhat decent crossing point, hopping on boulders and whatnot following the stream up to this cliff line. The cliff line is obvious, but everything is dirty. This is nothing like the well traveled crags of the DCA, no this is the dirty brother of T-Wall. We started by climbing something we thought was a route, but who knows if we stayed on route or anything, but I do know that the end was scary as crap... a good 50 ft angling on lyken/dirt/water/animal-covered slab face with absolutely no pro. You will quickly adapt the mentality that you just cannot fall ever. Its not that the climbing was hard, it wasn't, but it was very heady knowing your feet are dirty and wet, your hands and fingers have the same fate... and you better not screw up or your taking a huge pendy + a 50ft fall. Reminds me of some climbing I've done at Tallulah. So I got to the belay ledge... the gear I did place was rather good... the second pitch of the climb we thought we were one didn't seem right, so we just rapped from a giant tree. Plus the rock above us looked like it was part of a Jenga set, not what I want to be climbing on. I thought that Bomb's Away (5.8+), maybe???, had cured me of my Suck Creek adventure, but then I see this BEAUTIFUL finger crack, that could be called Sand Jive. The finger crack was literally just begging me to climb it... I bouldered the first move or so, pulled some shit rock off decided I'd try it another time. The end made no sense and without any webbing to leave behind I didn't really want to leave gear or rap off the small looking tree that was near it. This route looked absolutely spectacular though, its so pretty. I don't understand how the Craggers could only give it ZERO stars... something must be up :) Also the belay instructions made no sense... but I think I've said that a few times now... My goal is to collect some beta on it and go climb it... later. We did walk the entire right side cliff line, looking at Auschwitz Buttress, Upper Passes and Flying Squirrel Buttress... a lot of it is really dirty, but the places it looks awesome compare to T-Wall without the craggy feeling of T-Wall! Need to figure out how to get to the concentration camps, and maybe go visit roadside.
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