Lost Wall - Awesomeness
woodzy | 17 September, 2006 22:17
Got on some awesome routes today, it was an introduction to climbing for a few folks, but I got to lead some awesome routes onsight :). Makes me happy! Routes: - Steggo 5.6...
- two pieces of gear :), good thing I've gotten comfortable with < 5.7 run-out-ness
- Black Pig 5.9
- Booze and Broads 9
- Awesome route! The start is not as hard as it looks, but thought provoking.
- Pipe Full of Fun - 10a
- The start is crazy! But with the right boulding moves... horizontaling your back and jamming your left foot and knee baring your right foot its not so bad... but it looks crazy.
- The rest of the route is awesome, its not hard, rests everywhere... tons of fun!
- Awesome finger-locks abound
- Linda's Corner - 7
Tenessee Wall
woodzy | 15 September, 2006 21:19
I know its early in the season... but it was almost perfect today... especially in the shade after 2/3 pm - prerequisite for excellence - 5.8
- passages - 5.8
- the sweep - 5.10a
- the craggers is not kidding when it says scant gear! luckily we tr'ed it first. the beginning is the crux, as always. To the routes credit the sections that are run out (20-25ft) are pretty chill and protected by pretty good gear (.75 BD cam). The only move close to worrying about is 5/6 feet above the gear.)
- pursuit of excellence 5.9 (with perfect hand crack techinique, hah)...
- so you'll want move than 2 #1's and 2 #2's on this route... ah running out the top 30ft of the handcrack is not recommended... although nothing went sour it had the possibility... luckly I didn't epic twice on this route!
- i need to lead this next time and work the hand crack afterwards
- finagle - 5.9
- sweet 20ft finger lock/crack nice and facey.
I meant to get on finger lockin' good... but after my enduro riduculous on pusuit, I wasn't really feelin' it.
BBQ potato is always awesome
Sunset Rock
woodzy | 09 September, 2006 21:14
Boy did I drag my ass today... mentionables... - Stan's Crack - 5.8?
- Rusty's Crack 5.10a
- OW monster in the beginning leads to a 5.10 bouldery roof (which is dialed now) move out to an OW crack and cruise to the top.
- Flagstone (top-roped) - 5.11a (tried some direct 5.11c/d hard roof... disaster)
- gotta lead this guy next time, its gear is better than the guide book implies... the bolts cover the trouble at the top
Looking Glass
woodzy | 02 September, 2006 21:08
Sleeping in a hammock in the cave near the pull off toward the South face is awesome... unless bats run into you and you fear some rabies! :) no worries though. Routes... - The Nose (run out for fun?... or no gear doing direct stuff on the last pitch :) )
- Safari Jive 2 pitches - 11c (aid through the 11c move**, then climb a beautiful finger crack for 25ft... running out the last 20 ft is awesome! its all good gear.)
- The Odyssey 5.11 - 3 pitches
- supposedly the first pitch is 5.9... hah its like run out 5.10 friction with crazy wandering
- the second pitch is STELLAR 90 feet of hand and fist jamming with one little section of OW.. transfering out of the crack to a belay is the tricky part. Granite crack climbing tears the crap out of your hands... where's my sandstone
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