Crimped

My path climbing around the fish bowl.

Escalada en Chulilla... An amazing expanse of beautiful red limestone!

woodzy | 23 July, 2006 11:16

This area is almost as spectacular as Switzerland was, just on a much (much!) smaller scale. The climbing here is excellent limestone. Although if you don't have a car, getting here is not the easiest thing to accomplish. Luckly though, there is bus service from Valencia, but here is the kicker... it leaves Chulilla at 6:45am and it leaves Valencia at 6:30pm / 7:30pm.

I found multiple websites that claimed the leaving time was 6:30pm, although when I got to Valencia Estacion de Autobuses and asked the information desk... the bus was leaving at 7:30 on platform 35-37 everyday (this is as of July 2006). The cities website (http://chulilla.com) claimed the time was 6:30 but times during the summer were subject to change. The ride is about 1hr 45min. In conclusion, a car would be helpful, but not necessary... I love Europe.


I also found the website was helpful for finding stuff like the Market, a basic layout of the town and so on and so forth. It made me happy to see it. Oh and the castle they claim to have... heh right...


There is no camping in the park, so don't sleep on the ground, bring some trad gear and a hammock there is an awesome GIANT cave, plus a few places for just some simple tree to hammock love.

You also have to bring a pair of shorts that dry fast... the stream (they call it a river) is super cold (read freezing on a hot day) but oh so amazing.

The bars are expensive... hit the market...

Apparently they sell guide books in town for 7euro. I didn't want to shell it out, so we just hiked in and wandered around climbing things... plus we were only there for a day basically...


Anyway onto the climbs... here is one awesome climb I did (I use the term "did" loosely, as I aided through two spots, and fell at least 5 times going up), it probably dials in around 7b/7c. The moves are spectacular, an amazing amount of variation from crimps, to slopers, to pinches, to giant undercling pockets, to just giant jugs (there is really only one of these and its a one arm lock off pulling the roof). I had alot of fun on this climb. If you happen to know the name of it I'd love to know it.

An awesome climb at Chulilla, Spain. Amazing amout of variation in moves and just enjoyable climbing... over my head :) at least 7b/7c.

Montserrat

woodzy | 08 July, 2006 06:04

We did a route on Goro Figi. This was much better than Magdalena Inferior... it was longer, there were multiple moves that were interesting and the view was amazing! Too bad it threatened to rain in the afternoon and I was hungry, or I would have climbed something on Magdalena Superior... thats the next step at Montserrat. The rock is so crazy here... and not all the routes are sketchy bolted :) Multi-pitch Climbing with 3 people isn't bad, but its not fast thats for sure...

Thats a cross at the top... It looks like a spec in this picture... but if you look at the full size one...
5 pitch climbing route on Goro Figi in the Goros Area on Montserrat (spires of rock looming over the Monastery up there) near Barcelona.

BCN Tunnel Climbing

woodzy | 07 July, 2006 06:02

Been doing alot more climbing in the tunnel (3 times this week)... actually found some good routes (and by good I mean there were like 2 or 3 moves that were interesting in the bottom 2/3rd section of the climb)... So its more entertaining to climb there... plus my toe is doing better and that means I have to climb on it ;)

Rosenlauistock - Switzerland near Meiringen

woodzy | 01 July, 2006 05:46

We headed out to Switzerland for our second week break. Switzerland is amazing. So many mountains, all over the place! But between missing busses and sleeping later than we expected, we only got to climb one day, and even then we got rained off that climb toward the top, bummer! Oh well... I now have a larger goal of coming back and climbing Wellhorn which is a awesome 800m vertical face (dialing in at 7a) overlooking the Rosenlaui glacier! You don't get better than climbing with your shift off looking down at a giant glacier! We also stayed at the Engelhornerhutte near the climb we did, man do the swiss know how to make huts to sleep in ;)

Engelhornerhutte

Gagelfanger - route on Rosenlauistock... we had to retreat just a few pitches above the green area near the top...

Wellhorn - My goal when I have money && time again. The route starts right at the bottom of the obvious corner of the mountain and shoots up! Just below the Glacier! Amazing!

 
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