Fosters
woodzy | 28 January, 2006 23:34
Sweet day at Foster Falls. The water was the highest I've ever seen it. The waterfall was absolutely breathe-taking and loud too :). Perfect weather for climbing today too, on some of the routes chalk was just overkill, it was excellent. Routes in Order - Ankles Away - 9
- Twist and Shout - 9+
- Both of those are great face climbs. Thin holds balancy moves and just ever so slightly below vertical (88? 89?). Twist is an excellent Arete kinda airy in some spots, but a good technical climb.
- Fish Eyed Fool - 10b
- Always a fun climb, has a few cool moves in it. Good to work out those leading jitters.
- Rode hard and Put up Wet - 10d
- In true style it was climbed we today heh. I convinced my partner he needed to lead it (a little above his head), but the moves really are rewarding once you do them. Loses a little of its luster each time I've done it.
- Something's Always Wrong - 10d
- This was to-date my best onsight lead. It was absolutely stellar climbing. This was certainly one of the top 5 climbs I have ever climbed. VERY excellent. I just can't explain how fun it was. Its always great when the moves just flow perfectly! Recommended Climb... deserves more than 2 stars in the dixie craggers!
Tallulah Gorge
woodzy | 15 January, 2006 11:10
I have no idea why I haven't been here before! Well let me rephrase that... the approach to the base of the cliff is NOT user friendly but the cliff line is spectacular. So the rumors of the approach being horrendous have kept me away, until now! hah. The real trick to the descent trail is (the ranger said you can't rappel?) keep going down hill first then moving toward the cliffs next and cross at the ACTUAL bottom of the water fall. There are so many trails from random people getting lost its beyond confusing the first time you go there. All in all, climbing here, in the winter especially, is absolutely awesome. It was a forcasted high 40's and it felt like 70-75 right on the wall in the sun. We didn't even need our long sleeve shirts until after sunset.
Routes:
- Punk Wave - 3 pitches - 10a
- When you walk to the base of main wall... you look around and you see Punk Wave. It groans to be climbed. The first pitch is absolutely stellar, the gear is pretty good. At the top of the first pitch there is some nice 10/20ft (depending on how creative/stupid? you are) run out until you get to the dihedral below the fixed anchors. Its slabby, but when you get to the dihedral there are quite a few thank god! side pulls and jams. My hands are sweating thinking about how cool this route was.
- Digital Delight - 4 pitches - 8
- If water is flowing on the left of the start, then this route will be wet! The start up to the tree ledge is awkward is just kinda irritating. The chimney is foolish as well. The gem is the climbing just above the chimney. Excellent stemming corner, I muscled through that... and there is CERTAINLY a better way.
Crowders Mtn, NC
woodzy | 12 January, 2006 21:15
Swank little area. This is kinda like the Sandrock of NC.
The approach is a real bitch. According to a ranger I talked with, the approach (backside) trail is 0.9 miles and elevates 600ft. And at the end of that trail you are greeted by ~150 stairs gaining you another 150ft.
Camping is also an irritating feat. The park closes and LOCKs the front gates at 6pm in the winter... Seriously what am I to do with that? Thats when I finish climbing and start wanting some food... not back in camp ready to be stuck there the whole night...
We ended up car camping behind a church and scaring the crap out of a Natural Gas guy filling the churches tank. heh
Routes
- First Day
- Nuclear Cottage Cheese - 5.9+
- The roof move is the 5.9+ part everything else is easy 5.7ish. This climb was a little gritty and the upper parts were loose. I also had problems finding the anchor bolts so we ended up slinging a tree (kinda off route). This had some tricky gear.
- Electra - Sport - 5.10c
- Excellent route, this really was a fun route. Awkward undercling and a nice layback.
- After the escade and a late start it was getting dark and we were still unsure of what we were gonna do at night so we called it quits around 5.
- Day Two
- Burn Crack - 5.10c
- Excellent route. Very fun. Its just as classic as the book says. 5/10ft overhanging in the first 20/30ft of the route. Good moves tricky gear.
- Opinionated - 5.9+ - Sport
- Adam needed to lead something while we where here ;). Good route kinda like a mantle problem after a mantle problem.
- Unnamed 5.8
- This was almost as classic as burn crack. It was lots of climbing all tucked into one route. VERY VERY asthetic climb. On the backside of Davids Castle (main wall). Has bolts at the top.
This was a good trip. I don't really feel inspired to visit again immediately, but maybe when (if) I climb 5.11 it will be worth it :)... There is one 5.10a/c dihedral on the Red Wall that looks super awesome. I'll have to do it one day.
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