Crimped

My path climbing around the fish bowl.

Clito

woodzy | 25 December, 2005 00:08

Spent most of my time there this afternoon scoping out the river and the opposite bank. There is one nice little boulder on clito side with 3/4 problems on it. 2 I did probably v1/2 respectively. I really like the first one I saw (but those classic lines are always the obvious ones).

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T-Wall

woodzy | 18 December, 2005 23:35

Good Day at T-Wall. I'm burned from my bouldering, so I needed a day of hand jams and laybacks. I got it for sure ;)...

Routes

  • Arts (5.8)
    • Good warm up... the crux move didn't really feel like an 8 (more like a V2 bouldering problem), but that was just an omen of what was to come.
  • Pursuit of Excellence (5.9)
    • It was my lead, my jamming technique sucks, I get about 20 feet up on this route gripped to all hell because I don't trust my stances (I spent 10 minutes moving up and down in crappy hand/feet jams) and fall and almost deck on my #2 camalot which in the process of my fall gets tipped out and thank GOD! it held. Not to mention correct belay technique, that would have been a pain had Luke not ran and taken a few feet. I was actually falling back first into an ugly boulder... Nice ~.8/9 fall factor.
  • RazorWorm (5.9) and Cake Walk (5.8)
  • Sanscrit (5.8)

These routes were harder than the damn sport routes at Sandrock... man my jamming skills suck. If I work on those just a little, I'd be a solid 5.10 trad climber... all those moves feel the same except for those friggin jams :)

I am such a sport climber hah...

 

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HP-40 Boulderama

woodzy | 17 December, 2005 23:13

Spent Friday night at HP40 and all day saturday bouldering. We did some fun night bouldering until about 3am (got up at 9am and it was warmer at 3 heh). One fun problem, probably a nice V3 arete overhang kinda thing. Gotta be a classic.

Saturday. I destroyed the tips of my fingers. They were gone. Blood just started coming out at one point, heh... "Well looks like sweat has been replaced with blood."


The most fun problems I did Saturday (at least these are the named ones)

  • Fronts Slabs... I bunch of easyish stuff here
    • groove 2 - V2
      • was alot of fun, good warm up right in the front
    • Ring My Bell - V2
  • Ghetto Superstar
    • Mulletino - V5
      • Stellar Roof problem right at my max :)
    • The Lowdown - V4
      • cute moves and hard lock offs... kept spitting me off in the beginning, my footwork sucks...
  • High Life
    • Circumcision, Eightball, Contusion, Short Charge - V2
    • Waiting Line - V3
      • One of the best problems I did
    • High Life - V5

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Boat Rock

woodzy | 14 December, 2005 23:07

Going in the summer sucks... but in the winter this an excellent place to practice footwork/technique. Did all sorts of stuff today...

the best stuff was

  • Fire Women - V5
  • Waves in Motion - V3
  • Yellow Arete - V4
    • This is an absolutely awesome bouldering problem. Very classic.
Toyed with the spiderman boulder and (someones) throw V7 hard ;)

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Sandrock - Sporty Day

woodzy | 10 December, 2005 23:18

Sandrock on a cold day... this winter climbing this is kinda irritating. hah. I am of course new to the winter anyway. Florida doesn't have what I would consider winters nowadays. I don't understand how Ice Climbing can even occur :)

  • Some 9 on North side of Holiday Block...
    • I don't think my hands have ever been this cold... I have no idea how my hands worked on this slopy shade ridden rock in what had to be freezing temps... Man rock steals heat quickly...
  • Price is Right (11a)
    • We got smart and moved into the sun. Fun roof climb... really just 3-4 moves.
  • Midget Digits (11b)
    • Whoa, this is a crazy first 3 bolts. But a fun climb very worthy of 3 stars :)
  • Never Believe (11a)
    • Glad I talked myself into climbing this. Super pumpy route. Man do I need more endurance... I practically aided up this route.

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Boat Rock

woodzy | 10 December, 2005 23:11

Not much time to play around today. 2nd Time to BR... still overwhelmed by stuff here. Got kinda rainy after a few hours.


Lost Digits - was as good send though. A nice BR classic.

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